Types of parquet, methods of stacking and classification

Types of parquet, methods of stacking and classification

Except for wood types, parquet varies by size and class. Classes in the production of parquet and ship floor are defined by standards that prescribe both the method of processing and the allowed humidity. According to these standards, the allowed humidity of the parquet ranges from 7 to 13 percent. The parquet is classified according to the surface of the surface in 4 classes. This division does not apply to quality but solely on the appearance of the substrate.

The four classes of parquet are:

  1. Extra class of parquet is a substrate without big differences in wood color. Colored wood nuts are allowed up to 10 millimeters (0.39 inch) in size.
  2. The standard parquet class has bright nodes without limitation in quantity with frontal cracks with a maximum width of up to 1 millimeter. Small defects in a structure that do not affect the hardness of the wood as well as small color differences are permitted.
  3. The rustic class has a roughly expressed structure; there are no restrictions in the nodes in dimensions of 15 millimeters – one per piece of parquet. It can have flyback with five stitches, if not in the group. The friction crack can be up to 3 millimeters wide. Other errors are allowed if they do not affect the strength of the parquet.

Parquet is made of several types of wood. The most popular types are oak parquet, black locust, hornbeam, ash, walnut, and cherries. There are several types of parquet layouts. In addition to today’s most popular ship floor, there are various types of mosaics, alternating style, fishbone, and chess field. The style of “fishbone” is considered dimensionally the most stable style about the change in humidity and air temperature in the room in which it is located.

Parquet installation – instructions and tips from professionals

Parquet installation – instructions and tips from professionals

In the beginning, the advice of the professionals is that before setting the parquet floor it needs to be unpacked for at least 24 hours in the place where it will be placed. Avoid keeping the parquet directly in the sun or directly on the concrete surface. The wood needs to “breathe,” and you need to be careful not to dry it out or change its color on the sun.

Before starting the parquet setting, you need to check the base. It must be straight and dry. The permissible humidity of the substrate is 2 percent, and if the substrate is not flat, you need to level it. If it is necessary, under the parquet floor, you can install insulation for sound absorption as well as a foil as a steam boiler in the rooms underneath where the uncured spaces (basement, stairs, etc.) are located. These insulations are purchased in rolls and are easily placed on the substrate.

How the parquet is installed

floor1. On a flat and dry surface, pull out the direction of the first-row installation. Slacken the adhesive on the surface and start setting the parquet. Make sure the parquet is about 1 cm (0.39 inch) away from the wall and secure it with pegs. Free space to the wall will allow the parquet to move due to swelling or shrinkage with the change of humidity in the room. You need to check the direction of the first row of parquet with the help of the canopies. Set the fixing bolts at 1 cm (0-39 inch) from the wall

2. To fit the last piece of parquet properly in a row, use a steel pile profile.

3. Start the second row with the rest of the previous one.

4. Drill holes for radiators. Cut the last part and seal it in place with glue.

5. Place the parquet at the ends of the room with the help of a steel pile profile.

6. The remains of the glue remove from the parquet with a slight spatter or wet cloth.

7. In the end, tape or screw the corner battens. Slide or screw the moldings on the wall and not on the parquet floor to allow the “work” of the parquet itself. The average height of the slats is about 3.5 cm (1.3 inches), but for aesthetic purposes, we recommend those higher heights.

Make sure that the adhesive is not applied to the entire surface at one time but gradually to smaller surfaces. Professionals advise you to use high-quality adhesives because, in addition to good adhesion, they are odorless, so you do not wait for days for unpleasant smells from the apartment to disappear.

Tips for renovating the kitchen – Part 1

Tips for renovating the kitchen – Part 1

If you’re planning to renovate your kitchen, you’ve certainly checked many magazines and internet portals to find photos that will inspire you in arranging your kitchen. Did you wonder why you renovated your kitchen? Is it the reason to get a higher price for your apartment or because you want a more spacious, modern and functional kitchen? Here is our “Part 1” that will help you with this quest.

How much money do you have

If you don’t want the entire restructuring project of your kitchen to turn into a nightmare, you need to make a financial construction carefully. There are also important plans for the future. If you plan to live in your home for at least five years, plan a new kitchen in a way that will suit your family in the future. It’s multifunctional. Money needs to be spent on things you will not change soon. You can save a lot of money by choosing cheaper handles and simple mechanisms to open the drawer. If your money is not a problem, we suggest investing in them. There are always unforeseen costs, pay attention to them.

Element layout

eatWhen decorating the kitchen, the most important thing is the arrangement of the elements. Look at the space you have and determine which model of the kitchen best suits your needs, your home, and your family needs. Do not stick to the previous arrangement of the elements if they do not work perfectly for you. Make sure you can even more easily allocate items to make your kitchen look more modern.

Keep in mind that the sink must be placed next to or opposite the cooking zones and refrigerators, and the sink, fridge, and oven must be close to each other to facilitate the movement of the kitchen. To make your kitchen look cheerful, you can add plenty of lighting elements. It will be of great help to you at dinner for your guests and friends.

Selecting floor coverings in the kitchen

The wood is excellent and very warm material. We do not recommend flooring in the vicinity of the sink, as it can be damaged if it is exposed to excess water. Laminate is a great solution for users who want to save. It offers a wide range of colors and textures. Ceramic tiles are the best kitchen solutions for easy maintenance.

Tips for renovating the kitchen – Part 2

Tips for renovating the kitchen – Part 2

You decided to restore your kitchen, but do not know where to start? Here are some tips to help you refurbish your kitchen, create a better, more functional and modern space, all in our “Part 2“ that will help you with this quest.

Buy new items for a more modern kitchen.

When renovating your kitchen, you will surely spend the most money on kitchen items. You can avoid costs by refurbishing the existing elements. If the layout of your items is the same as before, you can save and replace only the fronts. If you have decided on new items, try to find a professional who will make you a custom kitchen.

Kitchen appliances are indispensable.

The indispensable devices in each kitchen are a fridge, a dishwasher, a stove, and sinks. If you think that the existing elements are still functional and can serve you further, there is no need to buy new ones. Enjoy your kitchen by buying a new dishwasher, and you have a lot more free time.

Work surface

Of whatever material, the worktop is a very important element of your kitchen. For the material of the worktops, the most commonly used is granite in different colors. You can even take wooden surfaces that are very commonly used lately. When selecting the worktop, choose colorful materials. White and black are quite ungrateful because every trace is visible on them.

Sink and faucet

sink2Without a sink and kitchen taps, the kitchen is inconceivable. Do not save on sinks and faucets. There is a wide range of products available at your disposal. Sinks made of stainless steel are the easiest to maintain because of their smooth surfaces. By choosing a two-hole sink, you will not make a mistake. We recommend a single-handle bowl and a built-in shower for easier washing of the sink after use. Brass taps are not a good choice, pick those of brushed or polished nickel.

Lighting

Keep in mind how you can not illuminate the kitchen area with a single light body. Especially if it is on the ceiling. We recommend the installation of LED lights above the work surface, or below the elements, which will make it easier for you to work in the kitchen. Install lighting in kitchen elements to achieve a better ambiance that will bring warmth to the room, reduce shadows and welcome every visitor to your kitchen.

How to put wallpapers

How to put wallpapers

Choosing a wallpaper is a matter of taste. Since the walls under the covers are very dominant in space, it is best to consult with the interior designer. Please note that children’s wallpaper is mostly made of paper. Since the paper wallpaper spreads in contact with moisture, the adhesive must be applied on the wallpaper and on the wall itself. For other wallpaper materials, this rule does not apply; the adhesive is applied only to the wall.

Pay attention to how to fit the patterns to make the wallpaper look uniform. Be careful on how the adhesive is applied to the walls and when the brush is used and when the roller is used. Always extract excess air between the wallpaper and the wall.

Procedure for gluing wallpaper

To begin, cut the wallpaper to the height of the room. Take care to fit the patterns. Place the wallpaper one next to the other to measure the size of the fit, mark the surplus and cut it with a scalpel. Refill the adhesive according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply it on the wall with a brush around the switch and in the corners, then apply it to the larger surfaces with the roller. Mark the vertical gauge of the first wallpaper with a laser meter. The wallpaper is glued to the wall from top to bottom.

Slip the air out of the rubber roller, and then scalpel cut the wallpaper around the sockets and the switch. Apply the adhesive again and place the next strip of the wallpaper taking care of fitting the pattern. The edges of the two strips must be ideally attached to each other. If they are folded or if space is left between them, the wall will look untidy.

Rub the rubber roller back on the wallpaper, and if there is a surplus of adhesive on the joints, wipe it with a clean cloth. Cut the surplus wallpaper at the ceiling and side walls with a sharp scalpel and use a lantern for leveling. Replace the sockets and switches, and the gluing is complete.

How to seal photo prints on a wall

How to seal photo prints on a wall

Each wallpaper has labels that must be followed. They define the type of adhesive and the way it is applied. The wall on which the wallpaper should be attached should be dry, clean, and smooth. It is advised that the substrate is painted in a white or neutral color so as not to break the previous color through the wallpaper.

Basic steps:

1. Unwrap the roll and cut off with the scissors in the marked places.

2. Each cut part of the wallpaper has a mark on the top. It contains product information as well as a number indicating the sequence of gluing. Cut out the tags after you paste the wallpaper onto the wall.

3. Measure the width of the roll and transfer the value to the wall. Photocopies are set clockwise, which means you need to stick from left to right of the room.

4. At the previously marked edge of the first length of the wallpaper, pull the vertical line that will serve as the direction of the wallpaper. It is very important that the first lane of the wallpaper be set at right angles because everything follows the next one. Apply adhesive to the wall in thin layers using a roller and brush.

5. Tap the wallpaper in place using a soft, clean cloth. Align the wallpaper with a rubber roller and avoid excess air behind the wallpaper. Place the second width of the wallpaper at the edge of the first roll and repeat the procedure carefully by matching the pattern. Remove excess glue using a soft cloth or sponge but do not rub.

6. Cut the ends of the wallpaper with a scalpel that you laid on a long flat lath or a lanyard. When cutting, place the scalpel at a lower angle so as not to split the wallpaper.

7. Align the wallpaper using a rubber sponge or damp cloth. It’s important to push out all the air that may have stayed behind the wallpaper. High heat or low air quality can cause the opening of the joints.