In the beginning, the advice of the professionals is that before setting the parquet floor it needs to be unpacked for at least 24 hours in the place where it will be placed. Avoid keeping the parquet directly in the sun or directly on the concrete surface. The wood needs to “breathe,” and you need to be careful not to dry it out or change its color on the sun.
Before starting the parquet setting, you need to check the base. It must be straight and dry. The permissible humidity of the substrate is 2 percent, and if the substrate is not flat, you need to level it. If it is necessary, under the parquet floor, you can install insulation for sound absorption as well as a foil as a steam boiler in the rooms underneath where the uncured spaces (basement, stairs, etc.) are located. These insulations are purchased in rolls and are easily placed on the substrate.
How the parquet is installed
1. On a flat and dry surface, pull out the direction of the first-row installation. Slacken the adhesive on the surface and start setting the parquet. Make sure the parquet is about 1 cm (0.39 inch) away from the wall and secure it with pegs. Free space to the wall will allow the parquet to move due to swelling or shrinkage with the change of humidity in the room. You need to check the direction of the first row of parquet with the help of the canopies. Set the fixing bolts at 1 cm (0-39 inch) from the wall
2. To fit the last piece of parquet properly in a row, use a steel pile profile.
3. Start the second row with the rest of the previous one.
4. Drill holes for radiators. Cut the last part and seal it in place with glue.
5. Place the parquet at the ends of the room with the help of a steel pile profile.
6. The remains of the glue remove from the parquet with a slight spatter or wet cloth.
7. In the end, tape or screw the corner battens. Slide or screw the moldings on the wall and not on the parquet floor to allow the “work” of the parquet itself. The average height of the slats is about 3.5 cm (1.3 inches), but for aesthetic purposes, we recommend those higher heights.
Make sure that the adhesive is not applied to the entire surface at one time but gradually to smaller surfaces. Professionals advise you to use high-quality adhesives because, in addition to good adhesion, they are odorless, so you do not wait for days for unpleasant smells from the apartment to disappear.
Choosing a wallpaper is a matter of taste. Since the walls under the covers are very dominant in space, it is best to consult with the interior designer. Please note that children’s wallpaper is mostly made of paper. Since the paper wallpaper spreads in contact with moisture, the adhesive must be applied on the wallpaper and on the wall itself. For other wallpaper materials, this rule does not apply; the adhesive is applied only to the wall.
Pay attention to how to fit the patterns to make the wallpaper look uniform. Be careful on how the adhesive is applied to the walls and when the brush is used and when the roller is used. Always extract excess air between the wallpaper and the wall.
Procedure for gluing wallpaper
To begin, cut the wallpaper to the height of the room. Take care to fit the patterns. Place the wallpaper one next to the other to measure the size of the fit, mark the surplus and cut it with a scalpel. Refill the adhesive according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply it on the wall with a brush around the switch and in the corners, then apply it to the larger surfaces with the roller. Mark the vertical gauge of the first wallpaper with a laser meter. The wallpaper is glued to the wall from top to bottom.
Slip the air out of the rubber roller, and then scalpel cut the wallpaper around the sockets and the switch. Apply the adhesive again and place the next strip of the wallpaper taking care of fitting the pattern. The edges of the two strips must be ideally attached to each other. If they are folded or if space is left between them, the wall will look untidy.
Rub the rubber roller back on the wallpaper, and if there is a surplus of adhesive on the joints, wipe it with a clean cloth. Cut the surplus wallpaper at the ceiling and side walls with a sharp scalpel and use a lantern for leveling. Replace the sockets and switches, and the gluing is complete.
Each wallpaper has labels that must be followed. They define the type of adhesive and the way it is applied. The wall on which the wallpaper should be attached should be dry, clean, and smooth. It is advised that the substrate is painted in a white or neutral color so as not to break the previous color through the wallpaper.
1. Unwrap the roll and cut off with the scissors in the marked places.
2. Each cut part of the wallpaper has a mark on the top. It contains product information as well as a number indicating the sequence of gluing. Cut out the tags after you paste the wallpaper onto the wall.
3. Measure the width of the roll and transfer the value to the wall. Photocopies are set clockwise, which means you need to stick from left to right of the room.
4. At the previously marked edge of the first length of the wallpaper, pull the vertical line that will serve as the direction of the wallpaper. It is very important that the first lane of the wallpaper be set at right angles because everything follows the next one. Apply adhesive to the wall in thin layers using a roller and brush.
5. Tap the wallpaper in place using a soft, clean cloth. Align the wallpaper with a rubber roller and avoid excess air behind the wallpaper. Place the second width of the wallpaper at the edge of the first roll and repeat the procedure carefully by matching the pattern. Remove excess glue using a soft cloth or sponge but do not rub.
6. Cut the ends of the wallpaper with a scalpel that you laid on a long flat lath or a lanyard. When cutting, place the scalpel at a lower angle so as not to split the wallpaper.
7. Align the wallpaper using a rubber sponge or damp cloth. It’s important to push out all the air that may have stayed behind the wallpaper. High heat or low air quality can cause the opening of the joints.
Over the years, you put a lot of coats of paint on your walls. It creates a layer of thickness that, when it gets too big, is creating a rather uneven surface on your wall that can be spotted immediately. It also can happen that your paint starts to drop out of your walls, ceilings first, leaving a big mark that is revealing your previous paint color. Then you have t for sure remove all layers of old paint before applying a new color.
How to prepare
The process begins by removing all electrical switches in the room where you are removing the old paint. You also need to remove all the masked sockets. And that’s enough. No need to remove the body from the socket itself. In this way, you have released the surface for work. Of course, it is necessary to remove shelves, paintings, etc. from the walls. Of course, you must turn off the power before any interventions. The easiest way is to turn off a certain fuse that interrupts the current circuit in which the sockets and switches are located. It is important that the electricity remains off during the entire work. Since water is used in this process, it would be extremely dangerous to have voltage on the leads you released after removing the switches and sockets.
The process itself
Let’s start slowly. Pour the water into a larger bucket and add the kitchen salt to it. There is not a certain measure so about a hand on a bucket of water should be just the right amount. Mix it until the salt is completely dissolved. You should soak the walls and leave them for some time so the water can penetrate the deeper layers of the old paint. In preparation, it is important that the wall be well watered and wait at least 5 minutes or more for the water to pass as deep as possible through the paint. In some cases where the paint layer is very thick, you will most likely have to do the procedure with soaking and swallowing in several stages.
The salt in water multiply that affects and the removal of paint from the wall will be easier, while it is retaining moisture and sagging the paint. You can soak the water with a roller or a brush. Also, it’s a good idea to get a bottle with a water pump. With it, you will very easily soak walls with water. It is especially useful for ceilings because there is no water leakage, as with a roller. After that, you still need to do that boring and difficult job, and that’s just scraping paint with a spatula from the wall. You will notice that the paint around the chandeliers and the bulb are much harder to remove because it is baked over time under the influence of the lamp temperature. Also, you will see that in places where there was moisture the paint is almost getting by itself.
Spanish wall is a very popular finishing layer when processing interior walls. The first reason is that it is aesthetic, and the other one is because the wall does not have to be as well prepared as for masonry to apply the Spanish wall. This saves time and money. But although it is easy to put it on, it is quite a different story when you decide to get rid of it.
You can remove a Spanish wall in two ways: by removing it with scratching your walls or align it with another layer. Given that the Spanish wall is quite uneven, if you choose the other way, be prepared to spend a significant amount of money for the material because you will need it quite enough to fill the gaps and even the wall. But if you like the option one better, know that although you will not be spending money, you will need to put a lot of time in this type of work. You will need about one hour per 10 square foot, and there is no easy way to scrap the Spanish wall, but here are some tips that will speed up your work.
The secret is in water
Before you start scratching, spray the wall with water. It is not necessary to do it on the entire wall at once because the scraping is slow. Then wait for a little for the wall to absorb water before you begin to rub the Spanish wall with a spatula. On the part of the wall that has been affected by moisture, removal is relatively easy, and it is possible to remove several squares for one hour.
Choose wise your tool
Do not buy the cheapest one because they can break in the middle of your work and you may be injured. It is better to get a one with a good handle. To make it easier for you to work, you can also sharpen the spatula. When the wall is well watered, push the spatula in parallel with the substrate on which the Spanish wall is made, and then try to slit the spatula as deeply as possible beneath the Spanish wall. That is how you will be removing the largest possible pieces.
We suggest that you shouldn’t engage in this kind of work if you do not have enough knowledge and experience, because it may endanger not just your health but your life too. Improper work may also result in substantial material damage. It is best to understand these projects as informative and to give specific work to qualified service or other professionals in a particular area.
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